JUNIN DE LOS ANDES PUESTERO 2009

Each February the gauchos/cowboys of the region meet in Junin de los Andes for what amounts to the annual gathering of the clan, the Calgary Stampede and Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade all in one 4-day event, El Puestero. There is nothing fancy or commercialized about the event, with the exception of all the gauchos decked out in their campo finery. It has the feel of the “old” West and is all about the hard-riding, hard-living gauchos of Patagonia and their horses and horsemanship. Usually of mixed ancestry (Spanish, Portuguese and indigenous Indian), the Patagonian gauchos lived, until modern times, a nomadic life on the fringe of society, often with his horse, saddle and the clothes on his back as his sole possessions. Modern-day gauchos live on large estancias/ranches where they work the cattle and sheep herds over vast tracks of land often spending days or weeks away from home.

A couple of points about the traditional gaucho dress: first, for as rugged as the gauchos are, the common footwear is a rather flimsy, moccasin-like shoes called alparagatas, the Argentine equivalent to espadrilles. As explained to us, since the gaucho spends most of his day in the saddle, with his toes in a strap stirrup there is no need for cowboy boots with their pointed toes and high heel. It seems gauchos spend little time “walking around”. Nest is the boina/beret, often with a very broad brim/visor, for protection from the intense sun, floppy and flexible enough that it does not blow off when riding fast or when faced with the infamous Patagonian winds. Then there are their bombachas/pants with an ample in the seat and gathered at the ankle.The British introduced them adapted from the Turks in the early 1900s. Finally from an early age every gaucho carries a facón, a long knife in an often very gaudy scabbard tucked into a belt in the middle of the back. It was originally intended to settle disagreements or provide personal protection, but now it is a benign adornment unless, of course, you cross a gaucho. No matter, all gauchos put a lot of time and effort into looking the part of the ruggedly handsome, hard-riding nomad of Patagonia, even while he is on his cell phone mounted on his trusted steed!

Our favorite events are the children’s rodeo, where young gauchos-in-training ride and otherwise harass sheep and calves as the youngsters hone their riding and roping skills; the adult rodeo, which is serious business with prize money; and the grand desfile or parade. People line the main street of Junin to view the mounted gauchos with their horses in fine tack, senoritas with wide frilly dresses spread across horses’ backs, a multitude of children’s activity groups (karate, roller skating, gymnastics, etc.) and the various military units from ski troops to mounted gun units (an entire howitzer disassembled and carried on the backs of mules). One of the few mounted bands left in the country, dressed in their red and black Edwardian uniforms complete with polished brass helmets with feather plumes, although it stands as it plays for all the passing groups. And of course, we were treated to all of the local fire trucks, rescue vehicles, trash compactor trucks and even the local taxis and pizza delivery vehicles. There is something for everyone and the townspeople turn out in force to cheer for friends and relatives as they strut their stuff. As far as parades go, it doesn’t get much better when it comes to local enthusiasm and color.

To see more pictures click on Puestero.